A look at Western Liguria (Italian Riviera)

The ‘Italian Riviera’, as it is affectionately known, is the stretch of coastline that joins France and Tuscany. The word ‘riviera’ in Italian simply means shore, and the area from Ventimiglia to Genoa is called the Riviera di Ponente. This region boasts some of the most refined beaches in the world, their swaying palm trees set against a backdrop of old fishing towns complete with precise shuttered buildings in an array of colours from pink to green. It’s a welcome change from the Cote d’Azur, with life being somewhat more easy-going and laid back. No one will mind if you’re not carrying the latest designer bag, and you can be sure that prices will be lower.

Food and Wine

This is the area where the ‘Brits’ used to flock to in the 1920s because of its mild and sunny winter weather. The area is sheltered by the Maritime Alps, and lemons, oranges and flowers thrive in the winter sun. Some of the best olive oil in the world is produced here, from villages such as Moltedo and Chuisavecchia. This is, of course, according to the Ligurians, the Tuscans may have something to say about that!

Western Liguria has always looked to the sea for survival. It has always been poor in resources but full of tenacious seaman and merchants. Columbus, Garibaldi and Mazzini all came from this area, and Genova was, and still is, an important seaport. As you may have guessed, the ‘cucina’ of the area is based on fish, with Ligurian fish stew similar to the French bouillabaisse. When visiting, try the local vino bianco o rosso: Pigato or Rossese.

Access

Access to the area is very good and therefore makes it ideal for buying a property. You can fly to Genoa or Nice, and now that airlines are offering cheaper flights, the choice is almost unlimited. There is a very good motorway link (autostrada) along the coast. Alternatively, you can use the Via Aurelia, which offers a beautiful scenic route. There is also a train service stopping at most of the well-known towns and villages, a bus can then be used to reach villages further inland.

The price of property varies from town to town and village to village, as you would expect. The closeness of the sea and a sea view always strongly influence price; some areas tend to be overpriced whilst others remain remarkably good value.

Ventimiglia

The first town you encounter after crossing the border at Menton is Ventimiglia. Depending on which road you take, your first impression will either be of somewhere quite dull or quite enchanting. I don’t think that this is a good place to buy a property if you really want to appreciate the Italian lifestyle. As with most towns that border another country, it doesn’t really seem like Italy. Often when visiting shops, the first language spoken is French, which does not really create a very ‘Italian’ atmosphere. Property here is also generally a little overpriced due to the area’s proximity to France.

Bordighera and San Remo

Moving further along the coast you will come to Bordighera, with its lovely beaches and regal promenades. This is another naturally beautiful place, and may be considered a typical ‘up-market’ seaside town. Property prices here are high, probably amongst the most expensive along this stretch of coast. The hillsides here are also covered with flowers but the speciality is palms, and Bordighera has the monopoly of supplying the Vatican during Easter week.

San Remo has always been known for wonderful period villas and grand hotels, and sometimes seems like the ageing queen of the Riviera. This is a large and bustling town, with everyone always seeming to be going somewhere. The Liberty-style casino adds to the nightlife, and here you will most certainly not be bored. San Remo is famous for the Festival of San Remo in February, a televised song contest that takes place to discover new talent.

Close to San Remo is one of the trendiest ghost towns, Bussana Vecchia. An earthquake hit the area in 1887 and turned the town into the picturesque place it is today. Officially it no longer exists, but a number of artistically-minded people have restored the interiors of the houses, connected services, and live there with two llamas from Peru! This is worth a trip if you are in the area.

Property in the town and outskirts of San Remo is pricey, and property inland will certainly sell for less; however, the hinterland is covered with poly-houses and certainly not as pretty as the olive groves of our next ‘stop’.